Fast Rods!!

In recent decades, advances in materials, design, and manufacturing techniques have resulted in rods that are lighter, more responsive, and faster in terms of their action. For the average fly fisherman, especially those still honing their casting skills, fast action fly rods for bonefishing can feel twitchy or unforgiving. They require more precise timing and technique to load the rod properly. Typically labeled as “fast” or “tip flex,” some often require over-lining to perform effectively. A medium-fast action rod is often the best choice for most fly fishermen.

Loading a Fly Rod

I want to be sure we’re all on the same page. First, let’s talk about loading a fly rod. Loading a fly rod refers to bending or flexing the rod when you cast. You make a backcast and a forward cast, simple. During this action, the rod bends, or “loads,” with energy from the movement. This energy helps propel the fly line forward when you release it, allowing you to cast it accurately and with the proper distance.

Simply put, you load a fly rod by bending it to store energy, which is then used to cast your line. When you cast the line forward, the rod releases that energy to help the line go farther. It’s just the rod bending and using that bend to throw the line.

 

Fast Action Rods:

These rods bend primarily in the top quarter, with minimal flex lower down the rod. They load quickly, storing energy instantly, and release it just as fast, making them ideal for long, powerful casts. However, that energy load is brief, disappearing in a fraction of a second.

Medium-Fast Action Rods: 

These rods bend at the top third of the rod and strike an excellent balance between load time, power, and control. This versatility makes them suitable for various situations, offering a good mix of responsiveness and precision.

In short, the type of rod action affects how the rod loads and releases energy. Fast rods load quickly with a brief, fast bend at the tip, while medium-fast rods take more time to load and bend more down the length of the rod, giving a smoother cast.

 

Real-Life Experiences with Fast Rods

Here are two examples of fast rods in action:

Bonefishing with a Prototype Rod:

• During a bonefishing trip, a friend brought down prototypes from a major manufacturer for testing. While on deck, I spotted a big tailing bonefish 60–70 feet away straight into a stiff 20 mph wind. Using the latest and greatest model rod, I made three casts but fell short each time. Frustrated, I muttered a few choice words. Unsolicited, the guide noted that the line seemed too light for the rod and wasn’t loading correctly. It wasn’t bending. My friend who brought the rods casually mentioned, “Oh yeah, you gotta over-line these rods by a weight or two.” Once I switched to a heavier line, the rod performed as expected.

 

Helping a Beginner

• A group of anglers drew straws to determine who would have to fish with a particular member that no one wanted as their partner. They said he was a terrible caster and couldn’t throw it 30 feet.  It was the evening of the last day of a six-day trip, and he was practicing his cast on the beach in front of the lodge. I was sitting on the porch, sipping a rum and coke, as I watched him struggling with his cast. It wasn’t that bad. His rod was rigged with the line weight recommended by the manufacturer, but it was not bending or loading and was going nowhere. I walked over and asked if I could cast his rod. I couldn’t throw it much further than he could. It was like trying to cast with kite string; there was no load. I grabbed a reel spooled with line one weight heavier and put it on his rod. The rod transformed into a cannon, doubling his casting distance. It was cathartic; he went from despair to elation after just a few casts! I felt so bad that he had been fishing with an underlined rod all week that I gave him the new line. It was my pleasure. 

Consider

• If you have difficulty feeling the rod load at the end of your stroke, try over-lining by one weight.

• Think of it this way: What will go farther? Throwing a whiffle ball into the wind or a baseball?

• Alternately, for you golfers… it’s important that you are fitted for your clubs. Some are not fitted and buy stiff flex clubs because they’re a manly man. With a stiff flex club, they hit a pitching wedge 100 yards. If they’d bought regular flex clubs, they’d hit that same ball 120 yards. Why? They don’t have the swing speed to flex or bend a stiff flex club. That club is of no help. Perhaps they have the swing speed to bend into a regular flex club. When the club head gets to the ball, that stored energy or flex of the club is released.

Understanding Line Grain Weights and Industry Standards

When I first wrote about this topic, most fly line makers adhered strictly to industry standards. Except for RIO, who disregarded standards and began building heavier lines that were more appropriate for real-world situations, sales shot through the roof. Customers loved the lines. What they didn’t know was that they were over-lining their rods. Since then, most manufacturers have followed RIO’s lead, producing heavier lines. During this transition, I was watching SA line weights. They were one of the last in the industry to adhere to standards until, one day, I saw their line weights increase.

Fly line grain weights are standardized for each rod weight.  As defined by the AFFTA standard, fly line grain weights refer to the weight of the first 30 feet of the line, which is considered the “head” and not the entire length of the line. The AFFTA allows a slop of 15 grains on either side of the weights. Here’s a breakdown:

• 7wt rod: 185 grains
• 8wt rod: 210 grains
• 9wt rod: 240 grains
• 10wt rod: 280 grains
• 11wt rod: 330 grains
• 12wt rod: 380 grains

However, line manufacturers blurred these standards by producing intentionally heavier lines, in some cases stretching out the heads to nearly 50 feet and distributing that weight differently across the length of the head. For example:

RIO Fly Lines:

• RIO’s 9wt Flats Pro Elite line has a 30-foot head weight of 280 grains, equivalent to a 10wt head, and a total head weight and length of 400 grains and a 50-foot head.
• RIO’s 9wt Bonefish Quickshooter line has a 30-foot head weight of 300 grains, 20 grains over standard 10 wt, and a total head weight and length of 330 grains at 35.5 feet. It is perfect for beginners. It’s got a big load and is excellent for short, quick casts. Experienced casters find that it lands hard when thrown for long distances and can spook fish.
• RIO’s 9 wt Bonefish Elite line has a 30-foot head weight of 260 grains and a total head weight of 369 grains and 49.5 feet.

SA Fly Lines :

SA was one of the last to increase grain weights. What I like about SA is that the box is clearly labeled when the lines are overweighted. On their website, in some cases, they clearly note: Overweighted by .75 sizes to load rods quickly; use designated line weight for your rod. 

 

• 9 WT AMPLITUDE SMOOTH GRAND SLAM_THREE-QUARTER HEAVY – 30 ft head at 270 grains, 10 grains less than a 10wt with a total head of 40ft at 335 grains, an 11wt line. 

• 9 WT AMPLITUDE SMOOTH BONEFISH_TRUE TO WEIGHT LINE 9WT – 240 grains at 30 ft.

• 9 WT AMPLITUDE SMOOTH BONEFISH PLUS_HALF SIZE HEAVY LINE – 259 grains at 30ft, 365 grains total head weight at 50.5 feet.

The Impact of Over-lining

• Pros:
  • Over-lining a rod increases the load and slows it down, turning a fast-action rod into a medium-fast rod. This makes it easier to feel the rod load and can improve casting performance.
• Cons:
  • Using a too heavy line can reduce casting distance and even risk breaking the rod. 

• Tip
• • Choose a line 30–60 grains heavier than the industry standard to overload your rod effectively.

Over-Lining vs. Overloading

Don’t confuse the two. You can over-line your rod, but too much weight will overload it. There’s a limit to how much weight a rod can handle before it can’t release its stored energy effectively. When a rod is overloaded, it will not perform, and an extreme example of this would be loading a 2-wt rod with a 10-wt line. The 10-wt line is far too heavy for that rod—it simply doesn’t have the backbone to lift, let alone cast, such a heavy line. Always aim for balance, match the right line weight to your rod to ensure optimal performance.

 

Simplifying the Confusion

If you’re overwhelmed by all this information, here’s how to simplify the process. I see professional casters down to beginners here at the lodge. Most of us fall somewhere in the middle.  Be honest with yourself when assessing your skill level. Don’t be a manly man; most of us aren’t as skilled as we’d like to believe.

1. If you own a fast rod and it’s giving you grief, the simplest thing to do is buy a line one or two weight over your rod weight.
2. If you have some skill, buy a medium-fast rod and string it with the corresponding line weight. If you are new to the sport, overline it until you learn to load it properly.
3. Check Grain Weights: All fly lines are labled, see below. Focus on the line’s front 30-foot head grain weight and forget about what the labeled rod weight it says it is for. To overload your rod effectively, choose a line that is 30–60 grains heavier than the industry standard for your rod.

4. Experiment: Test a few different lines on your rod to find one that suits your casting style and rod. Line prices have doubled over the past few years, so buying several different weights to try out is expensive. It’s best to go to a reputable fly shop and try some before purchasing. Or ask a friend if you can try out some of their lines.

 

In Conclusion

Many nuances can cause casting issues; deceleration into the finish, uneven rod tip travel, bad timing, using too much force or not enough, all leading to no distance, fat loops, tailing loops, and wind knots. I’ll leave that for another day, but I will address the timing. Remember, expert casters are consulting or designing those fast rods. They can handle a fast rod appropriately loaded with the recommended line weight. The load is quick, very light, and occurs in fractions of a second. New and novice fishermen don’t feel that load and reverse direction when they are ahead or behind the load. A heavier line gives a heavier load for a more extended period. With a heavier line, those learning can feel that load; it’s amplified. Do yourself a favor and buy a medium-fast rod. Most are sold at a lower price point. If you insist on buying the latest, greatest, fastest, most expensive rod and are frustrated with its performance, over-line it by one weight. You can always step down a weight once you get the hang of it.

 

By understanding these nuances, you’ll learn faster, be better equipped to get the most out of your fly rod and enjoy a more successful fishing experience. Most importantly, you’ll have a lot more fun!!!!